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3 ambitious L.A. hikes to try before winter’s end

One of many great views from the semi-punishing Hogback Trail in Griffith Park.
(Los Angeles Times illustration; photo by Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

My New Year’s resolution this year was to walk, jog, bike or hike at least one mile a day. By Jan. 6, I’d traversed almost 18 miles and felt awesome. And then L.A. caught fire, and my resolution was put on pause. After that, just as I was about to return to it, I had to leave town for a family emergency.

So finally, this is the week I plan to restart my efforts. Anyone else have a derailed New Year’s resolution they’d like to get back on track?

Along with my mile-a-day challenge, I am hoping to hike at least one new peak a month. To prepare, I am hitting ambitious trails that are exposed and are therefore often too hot to hike on a summer day. Winter is a great time to tackle shadeless hikes in L.A.. Just consider holding off on sending those trail selfies to your friends on the East Coast until the snow and ice melt.

Below, you’ll find three great training hikes, and amid the suffer fest, you’ll observe stunning views of L.A. and surrounding cities.

Before we dive in, a quick side note: Starting this week, I will try to include accessible alternatives to recommended hikes. That means highlighting paved or wide dirt paths through flat, beautiful parkland in or around the area of my recommendation. Please feel free to contact me with ideas.

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Now, on to the hikes.

Hikers descend the long, steep Earl Canyon Motorway trail in the Alta Canyada neighborhood of La Cañada Flintridge.
Hikers descend the long, steep Earl Canyon Motorway trail in the Alta Canyada neighborhood of La Cañada Flintridge. The trail is a fire road with multiple switchbacks and viewpoints along the way that provide grand vistas of neighboring communities.
(Mark Boster / For The Times)

1. Earl Canyon Motorway

Distance: 6.6 miles out and back
Elevation gained: About 2,000 feet
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Accessible alternative: Lower Arroyo Seco Loop

The first time I hiked the Earl Canyon Motorway (referred to as Earl Canyon Road or Mountainway on some maps), I worried I was trespassing. You will start out in a neighborhood before arriving at a yellow gate that you are indeed allowed to walk through. You’ll soon see a sign for the Hall Beckley Canyon Recreation Area.

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The first two miles are mostly on a wide dirt fire road with incredible views. I once saw one of the most beautiful L.A. sunsets, featuring pinkish orange fluffy clouds and a clear view of downtown, from this trail.

Just over two miles in, the trail will narrow as you continue to gain elevation. You’ll find at 3.3 miles in, the trail meets up with the Mt. Lukens Truck Trail. Those who are appropriately prepared for a longer jaunt have the option to continue onto Mt. Lukens, the highest point in L.A. city limits. Otherwise, head down and consider hitting a local spot, like toasted. in Montrose.

Two hikers on a dirt path pass an opening in the greenery. A highway stretches out in the distance.
At Five Points in Griffith Park where, on a clear day, you can see Santiago Peak, the highest peak in Orange County.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
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2. Hogback trail in Griffith Park

Distance: 6-mile loop
Elevation gained: 1,100 feet
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Accessible alternative: L.A. River Trail via Sunnynook River Park pedestrian bridge

This strenuous trail is a popular spot with sweeping views of L.A. and peeps of the Hollywood sign. It can be reached a number of ways. My colleague Deborah Vankin recently shared how she likes to hike from Cadman Drive to Coolidge Trail to Hogback Trail to Dante’s View to Mt. Hollywood — a path she’s taken 400 times.

I’ll share with you the route that my friend (and Wild regular) Bob and I recently took. We parked near the Griffith Park Merry-Go-Round and headed southwest onto the Fern Canyon Trail. (See map)

Within five minutes of hiking, we could see Strawberry Peak (which we’ve hiked), Josephine Peak (which we’ve hiked) and Mt. Thom, which we planned to hike two days after finishing this one. It will never not be fun to look at the mountains and say, “I’ve been there.”

A hiker on Hogback Trail in Griffith Park. Skyscrapers can be seen in the distance.
Barbara “Bob” Allen, friend of The Wild, hiking along the Hogback Trail in Griffith Park.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

About 1.3 miles in, we arrived at Five Points, where we appreciated the great view of Glendale and northeastern L.A. We then jagged south to the Joe Klass water stop, where we were greeted by two coyotes that were easy to shoo away. We continued southwest to Vista Viewpoint, where we had a snack and then trekked west to Glendale Peak. By 10:30 a.m., it was 68 degrees and, in direct sun, felt quite warm. We soon reached the Hogback Trail, where we tried our best not to complain.

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Near Dante’s View, we headed onto the appropriately named North Trail, headed in its eponymous direction and soon crunch-wrapped past both Taco Peak and Mt. Bell. We walked for a short time east on Vista Del Valle Drive before taking the Bill Eckert Trail back to the car. This last part included steep sandy segments where trekking poles were essential.

Regardless of how you reach Hogback, you’ll be in for a rewarding challenge among fellow hikers, limited shade and beautiful views.

A view from the top of the hike.
Amid the suffer fest, remember to pause and take in the view of L.A. and its surrounding communities.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Mt. Thom and Tongva Peak via Brand Park

Distance: 8 miles
Elevation gained: 2,076 feet
Difficulty: Hard 🥵
Accessible alternative: Crescenta Valley Community Regional Park loop

My friend Bob and I wanted to hike to Mt. Thom and Tongva Peak primarily so that when we fly out of Hollywood Burbank Airport, we can brag to our friends, spouse or perhaps just the passenger next to us that we climbed the steep mountains outside the plane window.

This hike is in the Verdugo Mountains, which stretch eight miles from the Crescenta Valley in the northeast to the San Fernando Valley in the southwest, per an informational trail sign. Like other hikes in the Verdugos, the first portion is steep and challenging for all fitness levels. You gain just over 1,600 feet in 1.5 miles. Thankfully, there are several flat spots along the way where you can rest.

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We started near a small playground via a route that resembled a drainage ditch. Within maybe 150 steps, we were greeted by two coyotes on the trail. We yelled, they left, and it was another beautiful day in America.

Just under a mile in, we ascended to a large flat area with benches and signs about the early history of Glendale, including the factoid that it was once dubbed “Pasadena’s first and only rival.” The next mile was even steeper. I switch-backed up the hardest parts, which helped me gain better footing and not hate everything as much.

A hiker pauses on the route to Mt. Thom.
Barbara “Bob” Allen, friend of The Wild, on the route to Mt. Thom.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

After we reached two miles, the trail flattened from a 30% grade to gentle rolling hills. “So now we just have to walk five miles?” Bob asked. Exactly. We took Las Flores Motorway to Verdugo Motorway and had lunch near Tongva Peak at a nice overlook with a Siberian husky named Baby and her Parson Russell terrier pal.

About three miles in, we switched from Verdugo Motorway to Brand Motorway and headed back down. We opted out of walking down the steep path we had taken up and instead headed west at 5.8 miles to a paved path that, while lackluster, was flatter and better for our tired legs.

Back at the car, I felt accomplished and also grateful for the healing powers of Uncrustables, as I woofed down two right before ascending the steepest part of this hike. I’m really looking forward to bragging on my next flight.

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***

I’d love to hear what outdoor accomplishments you’re hoping to tackle this year, whether it’s to smell a new native plant or tree every month or climb Mt. Whitney (whose lottery I recently registered for). All movement is good movement.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

A large group of bikers and runners take over a street for CicLAvia.
(Brian Feinzimer)

1. Boogie down car-free streets in West Adams
CicLAvia will host its 58th car-free open streets event from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday via a 4.1-mile route through West Adams. The route closes Jefferson Boulevard from La Brea Avenue to Vermont Avenue and includes three hubs where visitors can grab free water and participate in family-friendly activities. The event is free and open to walkers, joggers, bikers, skaters and more. Outside of motorized wheelchairs, only people-powered vehicles are allowed. Learn more at ciclavia.org.

2. Rebuild a pollinator garden in Pasadena
Arlington Garden, a nonprofit that cares for its namesake three-acre plot in Pasadena, needs volunteers from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday to rebuild its pollinator garden. No prior experience is required, but the organization asks that participants register for free, as space is limited. Volunteers should wear comfortable clothing and bring a water bottle, sunscreen and gloves. The organization will provide impermeable gloves for folks who don’t have them; they will provide a higher level of protection from ash and pollutants spread by the Eaton fire. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Improve monarch butterfly habitats near Chinatown
Project Monarch L.A. will host a volunteer day from 9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Sunday at Los Angeles State Historic Park near Chinatown. Volunteers will weed and prune habitat designed for the butterflies. Volunteers should bring a water bottle and hat, as it can get hot in the direct sun. The organization will provide water and coffee. Those with questions can email [email protected]. Sign up via this Google Doc.

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A wiggly line break

The must-read

A person climbing on huge rocks
Rock formations at White Tank Campground in Joshua Tree National Park in California.
(Calvin B. Alagot / Los Angeles Times)

I love when I return from my winter holiday break and feel relaxed and recharged. It’s amazing how quickly that inner peace can dissipate. For anyone else needing a recharge, take a look at this article that my colleagues and I wrote sharing our favorite mental health escapes in and around Southern California. Times staff writer Deborah Netburn finds solace in the Mojave Desert, a place that always reminds her that she is one of billions of specks of stardust in this world. “All those problems that have been eating me alive? Those ancient mountains don’t care about any of them,” she writes. The mountains always help put things into perspective.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Death Valley National Park is hosting its annual Dark Sky Festival this weekend. Guests can participate in night-time photography sessions and listen to experts present on astronomy and more. Can’t make it to the desert this weekend? There are several similar events across the U.S., including the Dark Sky Festival from Sept. 12 to 14 in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. If you do make it to Death Valley this weekend and overhear someone singing Cher’s 1998 hit “Believe” to their friends, that is very likely me. Say hi!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

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