2004 Charles Hours Cuvee Marie Jurancon Sec

Jurancon sec, the dry white wine of Southwest France, is an astonishing bargain, and this one from highly regarded producer Charles Hours of Clos Uroulat is one of the best from this historic appellation. Made primarily from the Gros Manseng with 10% Courbu blended in for finesse, the 2004 Cuvee Marie has an exquisite balance of richness, tart acidity and minerality. I love its scent of lime and flowers touched with a little oak. This is a white that can age, and age beautifully. But if you drink it now, open the bottle a little ahead of time. Jurancon sec is a tremendously versatile food wine. Drink it with scallops in a sauce, calamari a la plancha, Indian curries, a roast chicken. It’s also a great wine with cheese.

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Quick swirl

Region: Southwest France

Price: About $18

Style: Rich and minerally

Food it goes with: Seared scallops, sauteed shrimp or calamari, curries, roast chicken and cheese.

Where you find it: Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Topline Wine & Spirits in Glendale, (818) 500-9670; the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731.

-- S. Irene Virbila