Tofu is king at Izakaya Gazen in Little Tokyo

Name: Izakaya Gazen

Concept: A tavern import from Tokyo, in Little Tokyo. Open since July, it’s the first California location for the 16-year-old chain in Japan and perhaps not the last. There are a few flourishes, such as the grilled miso-marinated foie gras. But for the most part, this outlet of the restaurant serves uncommon izakaya fare, along with sushi — something not served at the locations in Japan.

Dish that represents the restaurant: The tofu sampler. Tofu, made every morning on-site, is dressed in a trio of flavors: plain (with roasted green tea salt and miso paste on the side); black sesame topped with wasabi; and tofu infused with cream. The trio will arrive with a brief rundown on how best to enjoy each one. You’ll notice what a difference freshness makes in a tofu’s taste and texture. You will also experience just how well the restaurant’s culinary team, overseen by chef Takuya Otaki, can tease out nuances in seemingly simple dishes.

Runner-up: The ozen set. It’s your choice of one of 10 main entrees paired with housemade “creamy” tofu, rice, miso soup and pickles served on a tray, available only at lunch. Included on the dinner menu is a heavily peppered grilled pork loin blanketed with a sludgy olive butter and soy sauce blend. The dish may prompt you to ask for some rice, which will serve as something to soak up all that umami.

Problematic: The seiro shabu shabu. This version departs from cook-it-yourself shabu shabu in boiling dashi (or water), easily found around Los Angeles. Your pick of black pork, wagyu beef, vegetables or a mix of all three, is steam-cooked then placed in a square bamboo basket called seiro before arriving at your table. Fitted above a metal container with hot water, the basket is served still steaming, which results in the residual cooking and subsequent toughening of its contents.

What are you drinking: Sake preferably, but shochu or beer will do. This is a tavern, after all, and the food complements accordingly.

Who’s at the next table: It’s a mix of USC grad students, civic professionals working nearby and older, well-heeled Japanese American couples on a leisurely lunch break during the day. At dinner, there are multigenerational families and couples well past getting acquainted with each other.

Service: Attentive, sometimes overly so at dinner. You certainly won’t want for water or wasabi.

Info: 362 E. 1st St., Los Angeles, (213) 613-1415; www.e-k-c.co.jp/gazen/la.

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