A lithe stone statue of a woman greets diners at Pinot Provence, a long running French restaurant in Costa Mesa that today features a new chef and menu. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Classic escargot is enrobed in a fragrant garlic-parsley sauce with toasted brioche breadcrumbs sprinkled on top at Pinot Provence. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
The onion soup features a light broth that is not overburdened with caramelized onions. And atop the soupe a l’oignon is a thin blanket of Gruyère at Pinot Provence. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
The comfortable dining room at Pinot Provence, a long running French restaurant in Costa Mesa. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
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The New Zealand lamb rack at Pinot Provence is marinated with chermoula and served with glazed carrots, romanesca cauliflower, grilled fingerling potatoes and a mint and harissa emulsion. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
At Pinot Provence, the frog legs are served with harissa butter, a basil emulsion, petite greens and garlic chips. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Pan-seared Alaskan halibut is served with roasted Brussels sprouts, gnocchi and caper beurre blanc at Pinot Provence. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
The maple leaf duck breast is cast iron-roasted and served with shallot soubise, roasted apricots and grilled broccolini at Pinot Provence. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
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The TV bar at Pinot Provence in Costa Mesa. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
The Valrhona chocolate bread pudding at Pinot Provence is prepared with Myers’s rum and anglaise vanilla ice cream. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)