Pizzeria il Fico chef Giuseppe Gentile, left, and co-owner John Tierney at Pizzeria il Fico on North Robertson Boulevard. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
The restaurant, near the Beverly Center and Cedars-Sinai Medical Center, isn’t too busy ... for now. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
A capricci dish of roasted pecorino, fresh fava beans and guanciale. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
La Campana con Bufala e Basilico pizza, foreground. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
The pizzas are made in the Apulian way, with a thin crust and baked in a wood-burning oven. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Pizzeria il Fico chef Giuseppe Gentile takes a La Bianca pizza out of the oven, which was imported from Naples. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Polipo arrosto (roasted octopus, smashed potatoes, olives, capers and cherry tomatoes). (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Squid ink pasta with poached Maine lobster and asparagus. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
A wood-fired four-cheese potato gnocchi. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)